24V draws less current than 12V for the same brightness, which means thinner wire runs, cooler operation, longer component life, and no brightness sag on long rooflines. We install 24V as standard.
Simply put, there is about a 30% price difference between each voltage. Voltage itself does not make lights brighter: brightness comes from the wattage of the LED. What a higher voltage buys is less voltage drop over distance, so a long roofline stays even from the first light to the last with fewer power injection points. See our system comparison for more details.
Voltage engineering
Voltage is not a marketing tier. It is an engineering choice that affects brightness, run length, wire gauge, heat generation, and long-term reliability. Here is the physics.
12V systems draw twice the current as 24V for the same wattage (P=VI). Higher current means more voltage drop over distance, thicker wire required, more heat in connections, and visible brightness sag at the far end of long rooflines. Requires power injection points on larger homes.
24V halves the current draw compared to 12V. Less current means thinner wire runs, cooler operation, longer component life, and consistent brightness from the control box to the last LED puck. Power injection is still required but fewer points are needed compared to 12V.
48V further reduces current draw and enables the longest runs with the brightest output. About 30% more than 24V. Typically specified for estate homes over 400 feet or commercial installations. 48V systems do require power injection points on longer runs to maintain consistent voltage across the full roofline.
Calgary has large homes with long rooflines. A 200-foot 12V run will show visible brightness difference between the first and last LED. At 24V, the same run maintains consistent brightness because the voltage drop is proportionally smaller relative to the operating voltage.
Lower current (24V) means less resistive heating in wire runs and connections. Heat accelerates oxidation and insulation degradation. Over a 25-year system lifespan, this temperature difference directly extends the life of every wire connection in the system.
The 24V LEDs produce enough lumens to fully illuminate a 9-inch gap between pucks. 12V competitors need tighter 6-inch spacing to compensate for lower brightness, adding 50% more LEDs and cost while introducing colour beam bleeding.
Read our full 24V Permanent Lights Guide for detailed voltage drop charts, run-length performance, and real-world brightness comparisons. See our System Tiers Guide for a complete breakdown of 12V vs 24V vs 48V specs, cost, and why we only install Gen 3.
Next step
Tell us about your roofline and goals. We quote by the project, not linear footage — so you get a price that reflects your home.
Voltage comparison
Current draw (same wattage)
12V: highest current
24V: half of 12V / 48V: quarter
Brightness at 200 feet
12V: visible sag at far end
24V: consistent start to end
Wire gauge needed
12V: thicker, heavier, costlier
24V: thinner, cleaner, more flexible
Heat in connections
12V: runs warmer (ages faster)
24V: runs cooler (lasts longer)
Power injection points
12V: frequent on larger homes
24V: fewer needed / 48V: also required on longer runs
LED spacing enabled
12V: needs 6 in (dimmer LEDs)
24V: 9 in (bright enough)
Price step
12V: lowest upfront
~30% more per step (24V is best value)
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